A-A-50003D
3.3 Materials.
3.3.1 Basic material. The knitted cloth for the body of the drawers and leg binding shall be made of 100 percent combed cotton yarn, and shall be knitted on a circular knit machine with a
1X1 ribbed knit. The cloth shall have a minimum of 21 wales per inch (WPI) and 29 courses per inch (CPI) when tested in accordance with ASTM D 3887 (Section 12 Fabric Count only). And
a minimum burst strength of 60 pounds when tested in accordance with ASTM D 3787.
3.3.2 Cloth for fly binding and strip binding. The knitted cloth for the fly binding and strip binding shall be made of 100 percent combed cotton yarn. The material shall be circular knitted with a jersey stitch and shall have a minimum of 29 wales and 35 courses per inch when tested in accordance with ASTM D 3887 (Section 12 Fabric Count only).
3.3.3 Waistband. The waistband shall be woven or knitted from cotton or polyester yarns, and shall be 1-1/4 inches minimum in width and shall have a minimum of 14 elastic strands and a commercial holding power (modulus) of 1 pound minimum, 30 percent stretch when tested in accordance with ASTM D 2594 for knitted or ASTM D 3107 for woven.
3.3.4 Thread color (all classes). The thread color shall be a good match to the basic material.
The dyed thread shall have a minimum rating of 3-4 for colorfastness to laundering after 3 cycles when tested in accordance with the AATCC 61, Test 3A. Rate using AATCC Evaluation 1 Gray Scale for Color Change. The color transfer cloth evaluation shall not apply. No appreciable change in shade or loss of color of the tested specimen shall be visible when compared to the untested thread.
3.3.5 Color. The color of the finished Class 1 drawers shall be bleached white. The color of the finished Class 2 drawers shall be Brown 436. The color of the finished Class 3 drawers shall be Desert Sand 503. All required colors shall match the standard sample when viewed using the AATCC Evaluation 9, Option A, with sources simulating artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500 + 200K illumination of 100 + 20 foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2856 + 200K.
3.3.6 Colorfastness requirements. Class 2 and 3 drawer materials shall have a minimum rating of 3-4 for colorfastness to laundering and 3.5 for colorfastness to crocking. Colorfastness to laundering shall be in accordance with AATCC Test method 61, Test 3A and the rating evaluation in accordance with AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change and AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining. On the color transfer cloth evaluation, only the stain on the cotton fibers of the color transfer cloth shall be evaluated. Colorfastness to crocking shall be in accordance with AATCC Test method 8 and the rating evaluation in accordance with AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale. When specified, bleached whites, fluorescent materials, or materials containing optically brightened fibers shall be checked for matching fluorescence, against the standard sample using an ultraviolet source.
3.3.7 Shrinkage. The finished drawers shall not shrink or elongate more than 12 percent in either the length or width direction after 5 launderings when tested, in accordance with AATCC Test Method 150, (1),(IV),(A) iii. Measurements shall be taken in accordance with 5.3.3.
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